Pattern: Simple drop stitch hat
Someone on Ravelry asked if I could write up a pattern for the drop stitch hat I made, that matched the Drop stitch scarf. I checked and actually couldn’t find a similar pattern in the Rav database, so here it is! Please let me know if you either find errors, or the resulting hat comes out really wonky, or my explanation is confusing. You can also download a PDF version. Here’s the Rav pattern page for queueing or casting on.
Drop stitch hat
Yarn: I used Loops & Threads Impeccable Ombre, a worsted-weight acrylic with short color changes. A wool or wool-blend would probably be better, so you could block out the drop-stitch brim. The hat uses about 100 meters or 110 yards.
You will need straights or circulars in 5mm / US8, and a set of DPNs in the same size. If you know yourself to be a fairly tight knitter in the round, you may want to go up one size on the DPNs. You could of course use circs for the main body of the hat as well, but the decreases come on fairly quickly, and I’m not patient enough to switch around a lot.
A note about sizing: If you’ve made the scarf, you can cheat a bit and do some math to see how many stitches you should cast on for your gauge and head. Do it in multiples of 10, plus two. On my fairly large noggin, 92 stitches was pretty OK; 82 is probably a more workable number for an average head. If you’re the type, you could of course swatch. As could I, if I were a proper designer. You can also check the hat on your head at the end, to see if you want it shorter than I do, in which case you can just do the last pulling-tight row earlier.
Cast on 82 stitches, leaving a decent-length tail — you’re going to be using it to seam at the end. Don’t join.
Knit four rows.
Row 5: *K6, YO, K1, YO twice, K1, YO three times, K1, YO twice, K1, YO*, repeat from * to * until last two stitches, k2.
Row 6: Knit across, dropping the yarn-overs as you go.
Row 7 and 8: Knit.
Switch to DPNs. Knit 20 on the first needle, 21 on the second, 20 on the third, and 21 on the fourth. (If you’re using circs, place markers at those points.) Join, and knit until the stockinette portion measures about five inches or 12.5 centimeters.
On the next row: K1, SSK, knit until last three stitches, K2tog, K1. Repeat on each of the three following needles. (On circs, obviously knit until three before the marker and do the same thing.)
Knit two rows.
Repeat these three rows once more.
Knit the decrease row. Knit one row. Repeat these two rows three more times.
Start decreasing on every row. When the needles have two and three stitches on them, respectively, break the yarn, thread it through the remaining stitches, and pull tight.
Here is where you decide if you want the purl or the knit side to be the right side. Either is doable, but the hat isn’t reversible because of the seamed brim.
Weave in the end on the side you’ve decided is the wrong side.
Sew up the brim using mattress stitch — again, adjusting for which side is your wrong side.
Block it in a manner of your choosing. Since mine was acrylic, I just tugged a bit at the brim to get the dropped stitches to open up a little more. The optimal blocking would probably be over a foam head, where you could pin out the brim. I don’t have one, so I’m guessing.